From Lahore (Pakistan) to Amristan (India).
Cooking time: 3 hours.
Difficulty: 2/5.

Dish introduction

This is a festive dish, full of competition and patriotism. The clash of two countries, with very similar cultures, taste and spices. Big ingredients, massive flags and the duck walking move as main taste.

The Whaga border is all about his evening closing ceremony. Big grandstands, massive flags, and showing off the uniforms. Every single evening since 1959 there has been a competition. In each side of each grandstand, the officers show who is capable of shouting for the longest time, playing the trumpet, looking bigger and lifting the leg high to step in the ground harder… any0way, this is just a show you must not miss, here we are talking about how to cross this border full of pride!


  • Carnet de passage for both countries.
  • Passports.
  • Pakistan Visa not expired
  • Indian Visa.
  • Indian cash to pay the first toll road (65 rupees)
  • No money need to pay anyone in the border. One guy will try to “help” you though ($). You don’t need any help.


-1st step. Exiting Pakistan

  • You will find, on the main road, a barrier. Just to say good morning and have a quic look on your passport. Friendly people, be kind, you are leaving them behind, to go to the competitor country!
  • Then just a quick look with a mirror to make sure you don’t have any Pakistany hanging under your car.
  • Drive 500m, pass one more barrier with friendly passport control, drive another 500m and before entering the main gate of the border, you need to turn left, to go to te customs declaration.
  • The customs declaration is a building were you are gonna have all your stamps done, so take all the papers you have. They do ask quite a lot of information.
  • Probably someone is gonna come to talk to you, just for self-entreteiment. Before the real guy will take you to a little office and fill in your Carnet de Passage information in the big book! Then stamp you Carnet de passage and your passport for the vehicle exit information.
  • At this point a guy might come to you, offer some help you don’t need, and in echange ask you money, or offer you to exchange money on his advantage! Don’t mind him, and tell him you have 0 cash.
  • Once this is done just outside this office and at the end of the hall, you find he immigration desk. A little form to fill, they put your details in the computer sistem. And you get your exit stamp.
  • You are done. Get your car and drive through the hole stadium. Just a quick passport control at the last big gate.

-2nd step. Welcome to India

  • You will have to stop your car in the middle of the stadium. They have to write your details, the car ones and the Carnet de passage, and will give you, in exchange a paper that will allow you to get out of the border! Quite a good deal!
  • Drive for some meters, still on the left side of the road. Little gate with a passport registration. And drive all the way to the big building.
  • If it is not to full you can park the car right in front of the main entrance. A good metal detection check and you are in. The customs will take a picture of you, make you fill a form, and take your details. As well will give you a yellow form that you will have to give to the immigration.
  • In the immigration office, they will fill at the book, your Carnet de passage info. They will ask you the yellow form and make you feel in another form about the Carnet!
  • After a while, all the paperwork is gonna be done and you can produce to the car registration.
  • They seem to be afraid of Pakistan, they are gonna check everything of your car, with dogs, mirrors, and some police officers in your car.
  • If they don’t find anything suspicious you are good to go to this huge and lovely country.

Tips to make this dish a bit more digestible

  • Do not leave Pakistan and enter to Inda without your Carnet de Passage stamped! You can lose all de deposit back in your country or wait for 7 years to get it back!
  • Better try to exchange money in Lahore than in the border.