From Samarkand (Uzbekistan) to Panjakent (Tajikistan).
Cooking time; 2 hours. 
Difficulty; 2/5

Dish introduction

This dish is a very important one for all thous fellows that like mountains and adventure. By cooking it, you will be able to enter the amazing world of the Pamir; sand, dust, rock. and lots of fun. This is a mountain dish, simple but with strong flavours, with pure ingredients and ready to calm the hunger for adventure! If this one is possible…


  • Passports.
  • Uzbek visa not expired.
  • Tajik visa printed + GBAO if you want to ride through the Pamir.
  • Car papers.
  • Some dollars in cash
  • Tourist or hotel registration for Uzbekistan.
  • Roll it slowly, the key of any border cooking is the love you put in all the steps.


-1st Step; Exiting Uzbekistan.

  • Easy passports check at the first gate; they separated driver and passenger.
  • Again together customs and passport control. Make sure you have the customs paper they give you at the enter border, and they will demand your hotel registration form. (See our solution at the end of the “recipe”, if you don’t use hotels. For adventurous chefs only). We had to fill in a form as well.
  • Quick luggage control, looking mostly porn, alcohol, weapons. No big issue, just behave as a professional chef. We suppose they can get picky, but with us, they were really friendly showing us all the hidden forbidden things they had.
  • Few more meters and you will have your exit stamp. Ready to leave the county.

-2nd Step; Welcome to Tajikistan and the awesome Pamir world.
Don’t get to excyted, the last steps is were the dish gets the full flavour..

  • Passport and visa control after the gate, nice and fast, they stamp both documents, passport and visa. So even if you had applied online is good that you print it.
  • Then you have to go to the police officers were after they look at your papers car they tell you how much would cost the Road Tax.
  • Different quotes; 10$ for a bike, 25$ for a normal car, 45$ for a bus, and 100$ for a special car.
  • They wanted us to pay 100$!! No **** way! After 2 hours of friendly discussion (really, they were willing to help). They accept to pretend that our van was a bus. So we had to pay 45$ (We heared people could bargain this price, good luck).
  • We had no problem at all at the exit border with this issue, so if you can pretend you are a bike, go ahead ;).
  • Impossible to get a car insurance. Drive carefully they said.

Tips to make this dish a bit more digestible

  • To don’t get too long with all the medicine check, you can have a small first aid box somewhere easy to find with nothing else than some stitches and scissors. Always works for us.
  • Money exchange is only possible at the Uzbek entrance.
  • Don’t say you have much cash, you may have to pay some tax otherwise. .

Tips for adventurous chefs

Grab your best knife and put some hard music on, you are gonna enjoy that one.

In our case, because we did not sleep in hotels, and we didn’t wanted to pay the money the hotels were asking us to do the registration, we found another solution. We knew that in 2018 things were changing, so we asked the touris information of Khiva and with the help of the tourist policie we got a free registration for all the days we told them. But only for the Urgench region, not for all Uzbekistan. We don’t really know what it’s written in the form, but the car is registered as well. At the border they accepted it, even if we only had it for the first 6 days of the 14th we stayed in Uzbekistan. If you want to have the full days of your stay you can try the same with the tourist police of Bukhara and Samarkand. Good luck and go cheap.